Whey protein for climbing: which one to choose?

Whey protein is the dietary supplement of choice for climbers looking to improve performance, muscle strength and recovery after exercise.

This article explores how whey, a protein derived from milk, can be particularly useful for climbing athletes.

You're not going to go from 6A to 6C+ simply by eating protein, but nutrition is an essential lever in a climber's progression, and without it, progression plateaus are often much longer.

So we'll look at the specific benefits of protein powder for climbers, best practices for incorporating it into a sports diet, and precautions to take when using it.

What are the benefits of whey for climbers?

In the world of climbing, sporting performance is closely linked to the quality of nutrition. Protein, in particular, plays a crucial role in muscle development and recovery. 

In fact, whey promotes muscle fiber adaptation, which can be a decisive advantage during your climbing sessions. Here are the key points that make it particularly effective in this respect:

• Rich in high-quality protein: a concentrated source of protein, whey provides all the essential amino acids needed for muscle building and repair.
• High BCAA content: particularly rich in branched-chain amino acids that stimulate protein synthesis and promote muscle growth.
• Rapid absorption: whey is rapidly absorbed by the body, making its nutrients available for muscle repair and growth soon after consumption.
• Stimulates muscle protein synthesis: whey consumption increases the rate of muscle protein synthesis, essential for muscle growth, especially when combined with resistance exercise, as in climbing.

Block or track, what changes in protein requirements?

In the world of climbing, nutrient requirements vary considerably between bouldering and route disciplines.

This difference is mainly explained by the nature of the training and the intensity of the activity in each discipline.

Training: bouldering vs. climbing

For boulder climbers, an increased protein intake can be beneficial to support the growth and repair of muscle tissue stressed during short, intense efforts. 

As you know, bouldering is characterized by short, intense movements requiring great power and explosive muscular strength in a short space of time. 

In this context, we prefer isolates with a minimum of carbohydrates, such as the "classic range" whey, developed for recovery and optimizing the beneficial effects of training after intense efforts of this type.

Route climbing, on the other hand, requires more endurance, with longer, more sustained climbs.

Here,muscular endurance and the ability to maintain sustained activity are essential.

For this type of effort, and even more so on long routes or in mountaineering for day trips, glycogen reserves are particularly hard hit.

This requires a diet rich in carbohydrates before, during and after exercise. Glucose, derived from these carbohydrates, is used to supply energy to the muscles.

Post-exercise, carbohydrates help replenish glycogen stores. Glycogen is a key nutrient for muscles to produce continuous effort over a longer period, and is therefore particularly useful on long climbs. The quality of recovery depends, in part, on the ability to quickly and efficiently restock (replenish) these glycogen stores post-exercise.

These differences between block and track directly influence the needs of the athlete, and the type and quantity of nutrients required, particularly after exercise.

The climber making longer intense efforts will then have a double challenge: replenish his glycogen stores and ingest a precise quantity of protein to recover completely, over a limited period of time, from 30 min to a few hours after the end of exercise.

Pro-recovery, like all Protéalpes products, also contains no additives or sweeteners. The main difference lies in the 2:1 carbohydrate-protein ratio in this formula.

This ratio is significantly higher than in the classic formula (reversed at 2g protein to 1g carbohydrates) for optimal muscle and energy recovery following high-intensity endurance effort.

When and how to take whey to maximise climbing performance?

Integrating whey powder into a climbing athlete's diet requires a precise understanding of timing and dosage to maximize benefits.

Best times to take whey 

When climbing, whey intake is a crucial factor in optimizing post-workout recovery.

We tend to recommend consuming this drink immediately after exercise. This is known as the anabolic window.

Let's take a closer look at dosage and consumption.

Whey dosage should be adjusted according to each individual's weight, activity level and specific goals. 

Here is a table summarizing protein requirements for different individuals:

It is important to note that whey should not be the main source of protein in the diet; the basis of this intake should come from other natural ingredients such as eggs, meat or legumes.

Nevertheless, it's practical, not least because you can consume it quickly, anywhere, and choose the frequency of your shaker intakes. On this subject, we recommend our article on how many times a day to take whey.

False ideas about whey for climbers: demystification

Whey, a widely used supplement in the world of bodybuilding and sport in general, is often surrounded by myths and misconceptions.

It is essential to demystify them to really understand the value of this product in a balanced diet.

Whey myths

1 - Whey is only for bodybuilding:

Some climbers think that whey is exclusively for bodybuilders.

In fact, although whey was initially very popular with bodybuilding enthusiasts, it is also beneficial for anyone looking to improve recovery, whether in strength and/or endurance sports.

2 - Whey is a miracle product for muscle gain

Beginners sometimes think that consuming whey is enough to gain muscle, or that it directly induces mass gain.

The truth is that muscle gain depends on a combination of factors, including regular training, a balanced diet and adequate calorie and protein intake. It's the training itself that will condition muscle gain. Whey will only optimize the effects. Conversely, endurance-type stimulation (trail or bike training, for example) will not result in mass gain, even with whey consumption.

And while it's perfectly possible to build mass without whey, it can help meet protein requirements, but it's no substitute for a varied diet and appropriate training.

3 - Whey is dangerous for your health

A common misconception is that whey consumption presents health risks.
Reality: numerous studies have shown that whey is generally safe, within the framework of conventional use and a healthy lifestyle.
Like all supplements, it should be consumed with control and as part of a varied and balanced diet.

4 - Whey is fattening

Finally, we sometimes hear that whey is fattening, not because it makes you put on muscle, but because it contributes to an increase in body fat.

In fact, whey as a protein source does not directly lead to fat gain. 

However, like any food, if consumed in excess of daily energy requirements and not combined with physical activity, it can contribute to weight gain. It is therefore important to include it in a controlled diet.

Sources :

• Chmielewska A, Regulska-Ilow B. Evaluation of Supplement Use in Sport Climbers at Different Climbing Levels. Nutrients. 2022 Dec 25
• Qin L, Wang Q-R, Fang Z-L, Wang T, Yu A-Q, Zhou Y-J, Zheng Y, Yi M-Q. Effects of Three Commercially Available Sports Drinks on Substrate Metabolism and Subsequent Endurance Performance in a Postprandial State. Nutrients. 2017; 9(4):377.
• Messina, Giuseppe, Amato, Alessandra, D'Amico, Giuseppe, Baldassano, Sara, Proia, Patrizia, Effects of protein supplementation in fitness world: A 12-week cross-over studio, Journal of Human Sport and Exercise. 2020